Other Projects
miata header

I fabricated this turbo header (for a T3-T4 Garrett) out of 0.065 inch 321 stainless. Look carefully and you will notice the double slip joint in each tube. The slip joint internal flow area is very smooth and is exactly the size of the rest of the pipe. The double slip joint seals well under high pressure and temperature conditions. It also helps the header live a long time without cracking. The header is an equal length design. When compared to a cast iron turbo manifold, the header is worth about 50HP on a turbo Mazda Miata running 25 pounds of boost.


The engine bay of my previous car, a turbo Miata. I built or fabricated each and every part used to turbocharge the car. I also built the engine internals to withstand the power produced. It produced an uncorrected 385 RWHP. The intercooler is a liquid to air unit that I fabricated. The intercooler core is capable of handling a 600HP engine, resulting in a pressure drop across the core of less than 1/4 PSI and a maximum intake air temperature of 120 degrees F. Excellent, considering the 400 degree air entering the intercooler. This is not a “store bought” kit. The car is a road race car, but will run solidly in the 12 second range without drag race tires or a qualified drag race driver. Breaking into the 11’s required drag race tires and some luck. Top speed of 168. This car  turned some fantastic lap times at Moroso and Homestead road race tracks.

I built my Titanium bicycle from assorted desirable parts, in other words, I made it the way I wanted my bicycle to be. I purchased the raw frame from Habanero In Lake Worth, Florida. I then polished the frame on a pedestal buffer. That took about a day. The frame has a deep shine that is very classy but does not look like Chrome or polished stainless. Titanium remains polished nearly forever, so it is a “one time” polish. I then purchased the components necessary to assemble the bike. I made a few parts in my home machine shop, just because! The bars are narrowed mountain bike style with a fairly low position. I added the aerobars for some additional comfort. The rear derailleur is a leftover “Paul Components” billet aluminum part. It is very robust and lightweight. A nice part for a machinist to own, as any piece can be reproduced. I use a Ti Sibex fork (the thicker one), a Ti seat post and 2 Ti water bottle holders. The bike frame is a cyclocross model, but I use it on the road only. Don’t laugh at my temporary pedals. So far, I have about 2000 miles on the bike and I could not be happier. Ti frames have a very nice feeling ride.

lister finished

Upon the suggestion of Bob Gross (left) I imported a few Lister type diesel engines from India, commonly known as Listeroids. The 2 cylinder versions you see here are going through a full disassembly and an actual blueprinting. These engines run on nearly any type of oil or diesel fuel. Veggie oil, such as waste fryer oil, olive oil, or cannola oil work very well due to the robust design. I have even run my engine on waste motor oil! There are no electrical components, electronics or complicated parts here. They even start by cranking, like a model “T”. A perfect back up generator engine for hurricane season as they run on nearly anything, are easy to start, easy to fix and have a very, very long life span. They even sound great!


My 94 Husqvarna 360WXC. I modified the engine by raising the exhaust port 3mm, modifying the powervalves to open 3mm more with the correct contour and the associated linkage, milling and reshaping the head, installing a 39mm pwk carb, v-force reeds, a modified FMF pipe (shorter headpipe) and a whole host of other mods. It became a super plush street legal enduro bike with great HP. Why they were not built this way from the factory, I’ll never understand. Top speed, 103MPH in the dirt.

The finished project. I used a 15KW “ST” type generator head on my 20/2 (20HP 2cyl) I run the engine at 850RPM most of the time, but I can also run it at 600RPM if I do not have high loads, such as in the Florida winter.  I can do this as there are 2 different sized pulleys on the gen head, which requires 1800RPM. Before you wonder why I did this, consider that a modern 10,000+ watt diesel generator is a very expensive piece of equipment. It is not likely that I could run waste motor oil (or other alternative) as a fuel in a modern engine without some form of damage. These things run for years on anything you can feed them. Plus this entire setup is a fraction of the cost of a modern setup, yet it is likely more reliable under adverse conditions. I used all new stainless hardware on the fasteners. I also blueprinted each and every internal part. The connecting rods, pistons, bearings, crankshaft, counterweights and flywheels are balanced. Fuel consumption is about 1/3 the rate of my Subaru gasoline generator and this one will easily run my 5 ton central AC in mid summer.


My 84 RZ350. I purchased it as a complete rusty basket case. I restored the bike, bit by bit, each and every part. It took about a half year. The result was a near perfect RZ with somewhat better performance than stock. I did not change the exhaust port timing, as it was already at 200 degrees duration. I modified the intake ports and removed the incredible restrictions in the transfer ports. I installed Mikuni 34mm VM carbs and eventually built my own set of pipes to replace the DG’s in the picture. The new pipes really woke this old bike up

head 3

I recently purchased this 2001 KTM 380EXC. It’s got a tag, so it’s good to go on the dirt roads around here. While I like it and it’s certainly a capable bike. It’s not as good overall as the Husky 360 above. The Husky had fantastic Showa suspension (same parts as the Honda CR250).  The KTM’s PDS rear shock has no linkage, so it has a tendency to feel “odd” to those of us used to linkages. The KTM has a more mid range grunt and a whole bunch more vibration. Not as clean and smooth like the Husky. Plus the Husky has 6 gears, not 5 like the KTM. Ugg.

This is my 2001 KTM 380EXC cylinder head. I welded up the squish area and machined it on my lathe. The original clearance was 0.101 inches. That much clearance creates rough running (blubbering) just above idle, and two strokes are rough running enough! I reduced the squish clearance to 0.055 inches and set the angle at two degrees. I machined the chamber dome to maintain proper compression ratio. The result is a far more behaved engine. It picked up a bit of low end torque and lost a touch of midrange. I could not simply mill the cylinder head due to the very thin surface.